A white bass trip from 1983 on Bull Shoals with my daughters. On the far left, Lori is now a doctor and Christy, the one in the middle, is a high school science/biology/physics teacher
I went back to an old play-ground last week for a couple of days, staying at the little resort and café at Diamond City, Arkansas, on Bull Shoals Lake. When I moved to Arkansas just out of college more than forty years ago the same little cafe and resort was there just north of Lead Hill.
When my two oldest daughters were only 12 and 13 years old, I took them fishing out of that boat ramp and around a big island. It was mid summer and the white bass were schooling all around that island. The two of them caught fish one after another. Their little sister was only five years old, and I would cast for her, then hand her the rod and let her reel in some two-pound and larger white bass. Finally, with the ice cooler filled with fish, she said, “Daddy, can’t we find something else to do that is almost this much fun, I’m just about wore out.”
I
drove over to the east a few miles last week to see another part of the lake I
love, the place where the old White River ferry still crosses the lake. In 1976 I put my boat in at the ferry,
and took someone fishing. We saw a
huge storm forming to the west so we came back and tied the boat in a protected
area on the bank, and took shelter in my pick-up. I got the bright idea of going up the hill and down the
other side of the peninsula to the Highway 125 boat dock, owned at the time by
Jim Carr.
The tornado was small, but it roared mightily
as it
passed my pickup and slammed into the Hwy 125
boat dock on bull shoals
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dock everywhere, in the parking lot and on the water. But what I re- member most is seeing boats by the dozens strewn across the open water to the northeast, some upright, some upside down. I don’t know how Jim came out of that little boxed in office alive, but he was unhurt. I took a whole roll of film of the aftermath of that storm.
Jim
wasn’t so lucky later in life. He sold the dock and became a Marion County
sheriff’s deputy, and one night he walked into a remote marijuana patch that
had been booby trapped with a shotgun set up with a trip wire. Jim lost most of the use of his right
arm, and was lucky to have survived the blast.
Keith
Hyde is a friend of mine who has lived all his life near the little Bull Shoals
community of Peel, a few miles south of the ferry. He knew an old guide named
Manfred Long, whose family lived near what is now known as the Long Bottoms, a
name retained from the days when the White River flowed free. Today it is still known as such, across
the lake from what is known as the Jones Point wildlife management area.
Many
years ago, when Keith was young, the old man likely wanted to get something off
his mind, so he told him a grisly story.
Right there a few miles below the old ferry, a family feud developed
between the Longs and the Wallaces, over some free-range hogs that both
families claimed. Manfred Long and
his brother were swimming across the river when rifle fire from a nearby bluff
took the life of his brother. He
told Keith that there was no proof that the Wallace boys had done the shooting,
but he knew who it was, so a few months later he waited at a river crossing
hiding behind a big tree, and waited for hours for them to come by. When they did, Manfred took careful aim
with a 30-30 rifle and killed the one he was sure had killed his brother.
Thinking
about those free-range hogs, I recalled the time in the eighties when my
Labrador and I were hunting mushrooms above the Long Bottoms and came across an
old wild sow with little pigs. She
would likely have caught me before I reached my boat, but my Lab seemed to be
her main intent and she couldn’t catch him. I had the boat running when he jumped in, and twenty feet
away, grunting and growling, the old hog stopped at the waters edge. I wonder if she was a descendant of the
hogs that got two men killed.
Keith
Hyde is much like me, and talking with him is sort of a living history lesson
about that beautiful wild area of Bull Shoals that I love more than any Ozark
lake, because it remains so natural. It will not remain so forever. The Corps land will someday be surrendered to the loggers and the
developers who want to make money from the shores of that crystal clear haven
that has remained much like all lakes should have been. In places like Diamond City, houses and
cabins and mobile homes were set up in the boom that took place in the 60’s and
70’s after the lake was built. Today that generation is old and dying off, and the real estate signs
offering a little home on a lot just a mile or so from the lake are everywhere.
A
new resident has moved into Bull Shoals. Everywhere, you can find hordes of zebra mussels, about the size of a
dime coating rocks and submerged willows. Keith tells me that when he crushes up a few and throws them into the
water, bass and sunfish swarm on them.
“I think someday the bass will figure out how to smash them and they
will grow fat from zebra mussels.” He says. “That has happened in the Great Lakes already.”
In
a month, Keith and I plan to take my pontoon boat-camper out to the Long
bottoms and fish beneath lights like we did back years ago. I was thinking it might be a good idea
to fill a bucket with zebra mussels and mash them up about midnight and see if
we can create a fish feast beneath the lights, something like the swarming
threadfin shad will do. But that
will be another story to tell, sometime in the middle of May.
We can now accept credit cards if
you would like to purchase our spring issue of my outdoor magazine, a subscription, or one of
my nine books. Just call me at 417-777-5227.
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